Two 10 year old wines

Four of us got together at the last minute for a dinner on Saturday, another effort to deplete some of our wine inventory. We went slightly off our normal track, which recently has tended to emphasize Burgundies and Barolos (who can argue with those choices?) and sampled two wines with some Cabernet Sauvignon, the 1999 Antinori Tignanello Toscana IGT, and the 2000 Chateau du Tertre from Margaux. The Tignanello (apparently 80% Sangiovese, 10% or so Cabernet Sauvignon) was a bit subdued, perhaps due to late opening, but with some time in the glass it strengthened, developing balsamico aromas that framed the more subtle Cabernet notes on the nose. First taste and I actually thought Cabernet, but subsequent tastes brought out the tarry Sangiovese character that seem to dominate the wine at this stage. While clearly not fully mature, the wine shows good, sharp mid-palate definition, with that Sangiovese acidity bringing clarity to the wine on the finish.

The du Tertre was also caught in transition, with secondary flavors perhaps even dominating primary at this stage. Not hugely long or complex or structured, this nonetheless shows nicely detailed Cabernet and Merlot flavors, with complementary green and dark cassis flavors showing the richness of the vintage and the floral elegance of the Margaux appellation. This gives me some measure of relief that the highly touted 2000 Bordeaux vintage is going to deliver...

Italian Eclectica in the Hills

The usual suspects, plus Steve Pride and spouse, convened for some eclectic Italian wines deep in that cul de sac Moraga. I have to confess that the theme was perhaps chosen in part to find a set of wines that were as far as possible from the Cult Cabs that Steve is used to, and in that we certainly succeeded.

First up were a couple of Arneis from Piemonte, the 2007 Vietti Arneis and the 2008 Giacosa Arneis. The preference for the Arneis split very nicely along gender lines, with the ladies going for the slightly more full bodied 2008 Giacosa Arneis, which showed sweet tropical fruit along with fainter mid-latitude orchard fruit flavors. The men seemed to prefer the 2007 Vietti Arneis came across as much crisper, higher in acidity than the Giacosa, and with more northerly white flower aromas. Perhaps I was influenced as well in my preference for the Vietti by the pairing with the soft La Tur cheese that seemed to demand a more bracing wine.

Next up was a 1999 Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, the very definition of an iconoclastic wine. The nose is dominated by a whole array of nut aromas, the most easily identifiable of which was probably almonds, along with yeast. On the palate the leesy character is very apparent, with roasted red apple and yeast flavors, made slightly picquant by the faintest hint of carbonation. Probably a crazy comparison, by somehow this reminded me a bit of an Aubert Ritchie Chardonnay, even if the match in the grape variety was not perfect. Paired beautifully with Nilla’s signature veal tonnato.

Then to pair with the main course, four distinctive reds that were paired with Osso Bucco. A 1999 Paolo Bea Sagrantino de Montefalco Secco was opened up 3 hours before dinner, which helped to blow off some of the volatile acidity it showed. While this and other Bea wines are reported to take years to come around, this has not been my impression from tasting this one, the 1999, and a 2001 last summer. Who is to say what maturity is, but certainly this was showing secondary flavors that seemed to literally dance on the palate, with lush port-like fruit that exploded on the palate as inner mouth perfume. We had some discussion about how to describe this wine, with Steve suggesting the terms “porty and raisiny”, while others of us holding out for the distinction between these two. I guess this was a big one in its own way, but I was struck by how light it was on its feet, like Port without the high alcohol and sheer density, an acrobatic version of Pegau’s Cuvee da Capo. Certainly a highly original wine by probably anybody’s standards.

Alongside the Bea was a 1997 Casanova de Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova, certainly the most backward and reserved of the wines that evening. This wine seemed to have barely budged from its primary flavors despite its 12 years of age, with aromas of tar and black cherry coaxed only reluctantly from the glass. While not showy at this stage, I was nonetheless impressed with the depth of material here, with not insubstantial tannins balanced well at this stage by the density of dark fruit. I think this will drink very well in eight years or so, and is no particular danger of drying out as some have warned.

And then a 1995 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Steve Pride’s favorite of the tasting, which was chosen by Lou for its almost Burgundian style that contrasted with the 1995 Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto Alto that followed. The Brigaldara might be described as another Port-like wine (or it was by some) except for the darkness of the fruit and its strong mineral and dry extract finish. Intriguing camphor aromas on the nose added to the complex, exotic raisiny aromas and flavors that came across as almost as light on its feet as the Bea. Then the Bussola, which was another beast (or should I say monster) with the dark fruit and dry raisiny extract ratcheted up to a whole another level. This one probably just needs more time for its full complexity to emerge.

Last up was a 1988 Rieussec Sauternes, that while it paired well with the poached pears, did not do much for me. Slightly on the simple side, and missing some of the acidity and extra botrytis I look for in a really energetic Sauternes, this just could not compete with the Italian fireworks tasted before.

2002 Fevre: The Agony and the Ecstasy

A group of wine geeks concerned about the reports of prem-ox affecting the 2002 Fèvre Chablis in particular assembled to taste through many of their Grand Cru and a couple of Premier Cru from the vintage.

Some conclusions first:

• The 2002 Chablis, and the Fèvre in particular, are fragile. They apparently need to be treated with kid gloves.

• Mistreatment in shipping or storage prior to their retail sale for some of the wines seems pretty clear to me at least. Some batches of the wine are affected at a very high rate, while other batches are almost unaffected. This is incompatible with a 100% random process as one would expect with bad corks, for example.

• Lining all the wines up in the same kind of glass with the same fill, subtle differences in color were apparent, with the palest wine being the Preuses described below.

So first, a suite of 2002 Fèvre purchased through Premier Cru on the gray market from an importer in Denmark (the labels on the back are in Danish).

2002 Fèvre Montée de Tonnerre
Very pale yellow, this gives off faint chalky aromas laced with quinine. In the mouth, this is missing just a touch of the richness and complexity that shows up in the Grand Cru that follow, but the weightlessness and overall balance are convincing. This bottle has that almost feminine delicacy and elegance that are the hallmarks of the best Montée de Tonnerre. In fine shape…

2002 Fèvre Vaudésir
Just the faintest darker hue than the MdT, this was nonetheless another bottle in great shape, with a lively acidity on the palate framing richer, sappier, more complex fruit. The bracing citrus notes on the palate are fading here and there is just a touch of caramel appearing, but it all seems in the right proportion. This kept expanding in the glass, with new floral notes and texture emerging with time.

2002 Fèvre Bougros Côtes des Bouguerots
Another richer style of Chablis (within the Fèvre fold), but with even more bracing acidity than the Vaudesir showed, with notes of quinine tempered by the faintest touch of more volatile sherry aromas. This again seems to be in a good place on the aging curve, although I don’t know if it will make it to 20 years. A fine effort, but maybe not quite as compelling as some of the Bouguerots I have had in later years.

2002 Fèvre Preuses
I have had an advanced version of this wine in the past that was still quite good, with softer floral and tropical fruit aromas that made for a very different style from what appears here. This bottle had the palest color of any in the lineup, with only the faintest trace of straw yellow. On the nose the seductive aromas are of oyster shell, chalk, and tidal pool delivered with great delicacy and detail. On the palate this is not the most powerful wine that you will encounter, but it is hard to imagine a more weightless one, or one with greater crystallinity, detail, and transparency. This is like looking into a crystal clear tidal pool, with details at depth showing remarkably in focus. It is not often that mere mortals get to see Newton’s Law of Gravity flouted so brazenly and successfully. The long seashell and saline notes linger on the palate with an almost ghostly presence. This was a great bottle that I could not get out of my mind (or off my palate) as I mistakenly drove west instead of east on leaving the tasting…

2002 Fèvre Valmur
The strongest color of any in the original six, and also the most advanced, with distinct sherry and almond notes on the nose. This would be relatively easy to drink and enjoy under normal circumstances, but it suffered in comparison with the more crystalline and pristine examples that preceded it. The palate has lost some of its clarity as well as the sherry flavors are starting to obscure the underlying structure of the wine.

2002 Fèvre Clos
I thought this one initially was more advanced than it was, with soft honey notes on the nose and a sappy mid-palate low in acidity. This wine was much more richer than I recall from earlier tastings, but also less advanced than previous recent bottles that showed more like the one described below. With time in the glass, this actually firmed up, holding its own for the rest of the evening.

Now a couple of 2002 Fèvre Chablis from my own cellar, which have been affected in the recent past by prem-ox:

2002 Fèvre les Clos (from the Wine House in Los Angeles, directly imported by Cliquot Inc.)
This bottle shows a more pronounced caramel –sherry notes than the preceding gray market Clos, although the bottle is still drinkable for those with some tolerance for this character. The ghost of quinine and oyster shell flavors can still be detected through the encroaching oxidative flavors, but the detail is beginning to blur.

2002 Fèvre Bougros (from Premier Cru, with a label in French on the back)
Even stronger sherry and caramel notes here with only the ghost of acidity and Chablis character lurking in the background, like those ruined cities of bygone eras now overgrown with vegetation that you read about in fantasy novels. Very much in keeping with at least some of the recent 2002 Fèvre Bougros I have had from the same source, although out of five sampled earlier, two were still good.

2002 Fèvre Vaillons (from Premier Cru, with a label in French on the back)
This bottle was again similar in style to the last 5 or 6 Vaillons I have had over the last year, except this was even further gone. One would be hard pressed here to even identify it as a Chablis.

To conclude, a beautiful 1986 Climens Sauternes, with apricot, almond, and botrytis aromas in perfectly orchestrated balance. Ethereal, with delicate acidity and fantastic length, this was as good as a bottle I tasted a few years ago.

Two Great 1986 Bordeaux: Different Styles, Different Palates

Last week we had a chance to taste some perfectly cellared 1986 Bordeaux among four of us, including Board member Lou Rittenhouse: the 1986 Pichon Lalande and the 1986 Léoville las Cases. Two great Bordeaux showing distinctive styles that turned out to resonate differently with the palates.

To start, we shared a 2005 Albert Mann Riesling Schlossberg, a wine that we had tasted at Thanksgiving. This bottle was opened mid-afternoon, a good 2 to 2.5 hours before tasting. This extra bit of air evidently made quite a difference in the profile compared to an earlier bottle tasted at Thanksgiving, where granitic soil and dust seemed to dominate the profile. Here the granitic mineral component was in the background behind a complex array of tropical and more northerly fruits and floral aromas. I am always amazed that these Riesling (when successful) can capture such a range of apparent climates in their fruit and floral character. The sweetness from the evidently 8-10 g/L of residual sugar was a bit more apparent as well, dominating the initial attack while the soil and floral notes emerged more clearly on the finish. Drinking well now with some air, but should be interesting to track over the next 10 years or so...

The 1986 Pichon Lalande has to be drinking close to its peak, with airy, high-toned aromas of olive, green aged tobacco, and cassis showing very expressively on the nose. On the palate, the presentation from initial attack to its long finish is horizontal, meaning it seems to spread across the palate, with inner mouth perfumes emerging as the spicy wine reacts vigorously on the palate. This wine manages a weightlessness that is not common among many top notch Bordeaux, and without sacrificing any richness of fruit on the palate.

The 1986 Léoville las Cases does not show the same signature crème de cassis mouthfeel of the 1982, 1990, and the young 1996 Léoville las Cases, but it does show that even more characteristic palate expression of layers unfolding vertically, or with depth in the wine. The nose shows aromas of cool menthol, rich aged dark tobacco (no green note), and a smoky undertone that is reluctantly coaxed from the glass. In the mouth, the wine is impeccably balanced, with an impressive muscular structure that shows no sharp edges, even if that creamy note is not there. Now the brooding suggestion of vertical layering here might well lead some to say the wine is simply not ready, I can’t help but feeling this is really the quintessential Léoville las Cases expression. This wine did nothing for Lou, but I still find myself beguiled by that intoxicating sensation of descent one gets with a great las Cases, as if plumbing the depths of the Marianas Trench. This seems to me a clear case where distinct styles of wine resonate very differently with different palates.

Some wines at Chevalier

A group of five gathered at Chevalier Restaurant in Lafayette to further pare down our cellars on a night of unseasonably cold and foggy weather. First up was the 2002 Huet Vouvray Brut Pétillant, a sparkling wine that has attained a near cult status on at least one wine discussion board. Here one is advised to relax one expectations a bit, not in terms of quality, but in terms of the characteristics one might look for in a high end sparkling wine (AKA, Champagne). The profile is distinctive here, with the Chenin Blanc evincing a distinct profile from what one finds in a Chardonnay-based blanc. Golden yellow in color, the wine shows aromas of chalk and orchard fruit, with a fainter yeast note lingering in the background. Finely beaded, vigorous, and intensely flavored in the mouth, the wine spreads over the entire palate despite its almost austere dryness. Sour red apple flavors provide a counterpoint to the palpable chalky character that carries through from the nose, with the dry extract of the chalk lingering on the palate for minutes. A very distinctive and original rendition of a sparkling wine, with a trace of crisp fruit sweetness emerging only on the chalky finish. This should improve with some additional bottle age, rounding those slightly sharp edges and bringing out the incipient complexity in the wine.

Next up was a wine that was corked when we tried it earlier, the 1993 Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges les Saint Georges. Tonight the bottle was pristine and showing beautifully, with dominantly dark but soft fruit aromas wafting from the glass, rendered more interesting by underbrush and damp soil notes. In the mouth this is surprisingly full and round, almost unctuous—a surprise because somehow I had the impression (based apparently on unsupported anecdotes) that this was a leaner, even acidic vintage. There are still some substantial tannins left here, and a healthy acidity, but the richness and purity of the dark brooding fruit more than stands up to it. Outstanding now, maybe even better in five years.

And then a wine in a style that I do not normally care for, with the label showing 15.6% alcohol, the 2001 Peter Michael les Pavots. And yet this 47% Cabernet Franc, 45%(?) Cabernet Sauvignon, 8%(?) Merlot wine shows none of the heat that one might expect, giving off instead blackberry, blueberry, and cool mint aromas that somehow come across as exceedingly elegant and refined. None of that bruising, testosterone-laden style that one finds in a Foley or Switchback, for example. In the mouth this is incredibly dense and satiny, covering the palate with almost impenetrable but slowly volatilizing compendium of dark fruit, tar, and mint that provides the inner mouth perfume on the finish. I found I sipped rather than drank this, but that is really all one needs for the complete palate and aromatic experience.

Last up was a unprepossessing QPR from the old days, a 2000 Roger Sabon Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Prestige. The last bottle in my cellar, this showed well, with fragrant, airy Grenache aromas interwoven with spicy garrigue on the nose. In the mouth this is medium weight, with a healthy acidity and delineation that intensifies the red berry and licorice flavors of the Grenache. At peak now, or perhaps a year or two past, this wine came into its own in the last five years. A nice wine, but it could not help but suffer in comparison to its competitors on this evening.

All Cylinders

A low key evening before the Christmas festivities and my annual homage to Napoleon (probably won’t invade Russia myself, maybe just Afghanistan). The red Burgundies were paired with Julia Child’s Boeuf Bourguignon, prepared by chef and co-taster Julie.

First up was a 2007 Weingut Keller Riesling Von der Fels Trocken, a limpid gold in color, with brooding aromas of wet slate and bitter citrus suggesting rainy, autumnal landscapes touched by more distant floral notes wafting in from sunnier climes. On entry this really covers the palate horizontally, with the slate and bitter citrus aromas becoming more visceral as they are released inside the mouth. The building acidity here energizes the mid-palate as faint tropical fruit notes are brought into focus on the finish. Holy Moly, better back the truck up for this one. A beauty…

Then two red Burgundies, a 1999 Leroy Volnay, with seductive rose petal aromas on the nose, and a silky mouthfeel with a red fruit profile showing raspberries and a finish dominated by the floral inner mouth perfume. And a bottle of the 2006 F. Mugnier Nuits St. George Clos de la Maréchale, another beauty with cool but intense aromas of dark fruit that hint at the depth of the material that is here. In the mouth this straddles the line between black and red fruit with fantastic purity, with a sensation of power conveyed without a trace of heaviness. The impressive structure of the wine emerges with time in the glass, as if crystallizing slowly from solution. Mugnier has clearly taken this vineyard to a new level…

Another Chambertin at Christmas

Following a new family tradition (well, only two years running now), we sampled another of Napoleon's favorite wines, a Chambertin, although perhaps the fact that Napoleon was reported to often (or always?) cut his wine with water could lessen the value of his opinion. Last year it was a beautiful 2000 Parizat-Charlopin Chambertin, a relatively easy going example from a less than stellar vintage. This year it was the 2000 Potel Chambertin, which showed a bit more austerity, but also greater detail on the palate. This medium bodied wine still delivered that Chambertin signature nose of underbrush and wild raspberries, with a touch of the sauvage combined with the bold flavors that was perhaps the attraction for the Emperor. This wine is far from mature, but drank quite well with two hours of air, and (so far) was a considerable step up from the other 2000 Potel I have tried recently (the Charmes-Chambertin, with a volatile nose and a slightly hard edge on the finish, and the Clos Vougeot, another slightly hard wine at this stage, but with good potential given some additional years in the bottle).

This was preceded by a NV De Meric Grande Reserve Brut Champagne, 80% Pinot Noir from Ay--slightly tart but intensely flavored, with a fine brioche nose. Very lively wine with plenty of character.