The usual suspects, plus Steve Pride and spouse, convened for some eclectic Italian wines deep in that cul de sac Moraga. I have to confess that the theme was perhaps chosen in part to find a set of wines that were as far as possible from the Cult Cabs that Steve is used to, and in that we certainly succeeded.
First up were a couple of Arneis from Piemonte, the 2007 Vietti Arneis and the 2008 Giacosa Arneis. The preference for the Arneis split very nicely along gender lines, with the ladies going for the slightly more full bodied 2008 Giacosa Arneis, which showed sweet tropical fruit along with fainter mid-latitude orchard fruit flavors. The men seemed to prefer the 2007 Vietti Arneis came across as much crisper, higher in acidity than the Giacosa, and with more northerly white flower aromas. Perhaps I was influenced as well in my preference for the Vietti by the pairing with the soft La Tur cheese that seemed to demand a more bracing wine.
Next up was a 1999 Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, the very definition of an iconoclastic wine. The nose is dominated by a whole array of nut aromas, the most easily identifiable of which was probably almonds, along with yeast. On the palate the leesy character is very apparent, with roasted red apple and yeast flavors, made slightly picquant by the faintest hint of carbonation. Probably a crazy comparison, by somehow this reminded me a bit of an Aubert Ritchie Chardonnay, even if the match in the grape variety was not perfect. Paired beautifully with Nilla’s signature veal tonnato.
Then to pair with the main course, four distinctive reds that were paired with Osso Bucco. A 1999 Paolo Bea Sagrantino de Montefalco Secco was opened up 3 hours before dinner, which helped to blow off some of the volatile acidity it showed. While this and other Bea wines are reported to take years to come around, this has not been my impression from tasting this one, the 1999, and a 2001 last summer. Who is to say what maturity is, but certainly this was showing secondary flavors that seemed to literally dance on the palate, with lush port-like fruit that exploded on the palate as inner mouth perfume. We had some discussion about how to describe this wine, with Steve suggesting the terms “porty and raisiny”, while others of us holding out for the distinction between these two. I guess this was a big one in its own way, but I was struck by how light it was on its feet, like Port without the high alcohol and sheer density, an acrobatic version of Pegau’s Cuvee da Capo. Certainly a highly original wine by probably anybody’s standards.
Alongside the Bea was a 1997 Casanova de Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova, certainly the most backward and reserved of the wines that evening. This wine seemed to have barely budged from its primary flavors despite its 12 years of age, with aromas of tar and black cherry coaxed only reluctantly from the glass. While not showy at this stage, I was nonetheless impressed with the depth of material here, with not insubstantial tannins balanced well at this stage by the density of dark fruit. I think this will drink very well in eight years or so, and is no particular danger of drying out as some have warned.
And then a 1995 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Steve Pride’s favorite of the tasting, which was chosen by Lou for its almost Burgundian style that contrasted with the 1995 Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Vigneto Alto that followed. The Brigaldara might be described as another Port-like wine (or it was by some) except for the darkness of the fruit and its strong mineral and dry extract finish. Intriguing camphor aromas on the nose added to the complex, exotic raisiny aromas and flavors that came across as almost as light on its feet as the Bea. Then the Bussola, which was another beast (or should I say monster) with the dark fruit and dry raisiny extract ratcheted up to a whole another level. This one probably just needs more time for its full complexity to emerge.
Last up was a 1988 Rieussec Sauternes, that while it paired well with the poached pears, did not do much for me. Slightly on the simple side, and missing some of the acidity and extra botrytis I look for in a really energetic Sauternes, this just could not compete with the Italian fireworks tasted before.
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